The oval diamond cut has seen a growth in popularity for bridal jewelry in recent history. It was invented in the 1960s by Lazare Kaplan, who came from three generations of jewelers including his cousin Marcel Tolkowsky. It is an example of a brilliant diamond cut. Classic and unique, the oval shape separates it from other diamond cuts with which it shares similarities.
The oval diamond cut also elongates fingers and requires a six prong setting, similar to the pear. It typically has 56 triangle-shaped facets, an elliptical shape when it is viewed from the top and reflects light outward. The oval diamond is one that can be accented very easily for engagement rings and bridal jewelry, with either smaller diamonds or different precious stones.
Since it contains fewer facets, impurities on an oval diamond cut are easier to spot. This also means it will reflect light brilliantly, which explains its rise in popularity as an engagement ring and other types of bridal jewelry. An oval cut typically does not work with a colored diamond. Similar to the pear, the oval is subject to the bow-tie effect, which creates grey or black bow-tie like areas of imperfection, so clarity is very important.
The oval cut is a fancy diamond cut. A fancy cut maintains the maximum weight of the rough stone, which is the stone that is originally mined. This way, the oval diamond cut will look bigger, but will be cheaper than a round diamond. While the proportions are up to the buyer, it is important that they be even for an engagement ring or any other type of bridal jewelry; an example of a high quality, even length to width ratio is 1.5:1. However, too large of a ratio will create dark spots and it will look like a poorly made round diamond cut.
A famous example is the Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, which is 35.56 carats and was sold in London at Christie’s in 2008 for $23.4 million to Lawrence Graff. Another famous example is the Steinmetz Pink diamond, a 59.60 carat, largest known vivid pink diamond, though it is usually best without the colored diamond.